Photography has a symbiotic connection with fashion; you just can’t have one without the other. But for Chanel, it goes even deeper. “Fashion is about clothes, models and photographers,” Chanel creative director Virginia Viard said in a spring-summer 2022 press release. “Karl Lagerfeld photographed Chanel’s campaigns himself. That supports and inspires me. ” Viard has called on Inez & Vinoodh to combine a campaign to accompany the Chanel SS22 track debut. It includes five films starring Jenny, Lily-Rose Depp, Alma Yodorowski, Rebecca Diane and Kuana Chasinghor-Potts, along with a set of portraits of the cast, repeating the same exact pose, holding a camera to her face.
“It’s a magical object and a sexy gesture that evokes so many memories. I loved the sound of the flashes coming out at the shows in the eighties, when the models were on the raised track. I wanted to regain that emotion. “
It is this emotion that is the driving force behind the collection. Presented at the Grand Palais Éphémère, each piece is made for Chanel enthusiasts who roam the resale markets, interpreted today by Viard’s deft hands. The show opened with plain swimsuits wearing chain belts designed for Supers, who rested on the Amalfi Coast in 1987. or 2022. Interrupting the monochrome warm-up, the show focused on beautifully decorated denim and crochet, then erupted in technically colored tweeds that belong to the main characters of John Hughes. Shock accessories have driven the theme of the 80’s, from heart-shaped bags to neon acrylic jewelry. The closing of the collection was a symphony of silk butterflies, which we assume are already locked in vintage sleep archives, ready to reappear in twenty years or more, when the “80s return”. Again.
The collection itself does not offer the cerebral intensity for which fashion has a reputation, but this is what Chanel has always done best. Viard captured the endless, albeit naive joy of the 80’s, which offers a carefree delay in such moments. We can’t always take fashion seriously if life is serious enough. Sometimes we long for clothes that are easy to digest and create an instant feeling of shopping. The whole track is a mental shopping list and we write it together with enthusiasm.
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